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BioCubaCocoa

A project that is committed to the development of cocoa and the benefit of those who produce it.

Baracoa, the first town founded by the Spanish conquerors in
Cuba has the particularity of being the municipality that produces 85 percent of all the cocoa produced on the Island, a responsibility that currently falls on some 1,243 farmers linked to different forms of production.

Like the coconut tree, the cultivation of cocoa is a livelihood and is part of the culture and identity of many families in the northeastern region of Cuba; and from generation to generation many
Peasants maintain the care of their plantations and the production of the beloved chocolate.

In this sense, it is a priority to promote the cocoa development program, due to its economic importance and the potential of its derivatives as an exportable item, and as an economic support for producers and their families. Aspects that are premises of the young BioCubaCacao project.

This project has defined several actions aimed at improving the working conditions and quality of life of cocoa producers and their families. Some of them are the location of stimulus stores in national currency intended for the purchase of supplies to improve production levels, food, personal hygiene products, household appliances; the implementation of an investment plan that will begin with micro-investments, contribution to the local development of the territory with 1% of the income earned as a result of the production process, among others.

The above was announced in recent days by Matteo Saccani, executive director of the Italian-Cuban company Made in Italy, in direct dialogue with cocoa producers from Baracoa and with authorities of the cocoa sector of the municipality itself, as well as Imías and Maisí . Space in which rural men and women made known their shortcomings and dissatisfactions, since in recent years they have seen the yield of their lands affected due to the lack of fertilizers and inputs (machetes, files, chainsaws, pruning shears…) . However, the new benefits offered by the BioCubaCacao project were well received, which also guarantees a traceability system that allows establishing the identity of the product from the field to the last actor in the cocoa value chain.

Without a doubt, the prospects for the cultivation, development and production of cocoa and its derivatives are broad, a leading product that in recent times is more in demand in several countries around the world, which becomes an excellent opportunity for economic growth for Guantanamo and , of course, of
Cuba.

Text and photos: Oli Barrientos Venereo

Colchado

CONCHING

Heat treatment generally used to determine the final texture and aroma of chocolate. It consists of using granite rollers to mix and cut the chocolate in order to give it a better flavor and smoothness. Likewise, it allows the improvement of the flavor profile and the reduction of free volatile acids in cocoa. Generally, this process is carried out continuously for three days to ensure good flavor development, although in some processes it can take up to 24 hours.

Alcanilizacion

ALKALIZATION

It is a process where an alkali is used to treat cocoa products (nib, cocoa liquor or powder). The main alkalizing agents used are: sodium or potassium hydroxide, carbonate or bicarbonate; oxide or sodium carbonate. This process is necessary because, after fermentation, cocoa has a low pH (4.7 – 5.5), a result of acetic acid production. Alkalization neutralizes the pH until reaching values of 6.3 – 6.8.

This process confers changes in the color and flavor of the chocolate. Regarding color, the change occurs from dark brown to a reddish or black tone. The taste is generally less bitter.

The change in flavor is produced by the effect of alkalization on pH, which also has an influence on the Maillard reaction induced in roasting and which influences the flavor. Alkalization must be carried out at temperatures between 75 – 100 °C. This process is also used to increase the solubility of cocoa powder used in beverages.

Tostado

TOASTED

In this processing stage, the characteristic aromas and flavors of cocoa are developed, which are formed from the precursors that have been developed during fermentation and drying. Roasting must be carefully controlled to ensure proper development of the chocolate flavor.
This process can be applied in three ways: whole bean roasting, nib roasting or cocoa liquor roasting. Roasting parameters depend on the variety of cocoa and the specifications of the desired flavors.

The roasting time and temperature should be maintained from 5 to 120 minutes at temperatures between 110 to 160 °C. Over-roasting the beans confers negative results on the characteristics of the chocolate.

Secado

DRYING

After fermentation, the grains have a moisture content of 55%. For storage and subsequent processing, they must be dried until reaching 6 – 8% humidity. During this process, the oxidative reactions of fermentation continue to take place. The most commonly used drying technique is sunlight, because it induces the development of more pronounced flavors in the chocolate. In this case, it should dry approximately between 12 and 20 days, until the ideal humidity percentage is reached.

In regions where the presence of sunlight is irregular, mechanical dryers at 60 – 70 °C are used. In general, the weight loss due to drying is two-thirds of the weight of fresh beans.

Semilla Tierna

FERMENTATION

It is one of the post-harvest processes that most affects the quality of the products obtained from cocoa. During fermentation, the pulp is degraded by the action of microorganisms, which causes the temperature to rise, the production of ethanol, lactic acid and acetic acid. This process results in the formation of chocolate flavor and aroma precursors, which will develop during the roasting process. Completely fermented beans have a dark brown color.

Without fermentation, cocoa does not develop the desired flavor characteristics during roasting.
There are different fermentation methods, the most common being: wooden crates, rumas or piles and in bags, either jute or polypropylene; However, the best results in the quality of the final product are obtained in wooden crates.

The number of days of fermentation cannot be generalized, it depends on the genetic material, the fermentation method and the quantity to be fermented. Generally the Creole type needs 3 to 4 days; The Trinidadian type requires between 5 to 6 days and the foreign types need 5 to 8 days. It is also important to establish the relationship with the other environmental factors that characterize each producing area.

An indicator of satisfactory fermentation is the presence of a peripheral ring of brown color, indicating that the cocoa should begin to be spread for drying.
Furthermore, when a cross section of the grain is made, a characteristic cracking of the fermented grain is observed and it has a chocolate flavor.

Limitaciones

POTENTIAL AND LIMITATIONS

The notion of quality is not directly linked to flavor, but rather to the health status (diseases, rot…).

When farmers are asked what potential they see for cocoa production in Cuba and Baracoa, they are confident that production can be increased. They add that it could be done by increasing the cultivated areas and also the yields. Increasing sales prices and land planning/development (e.g. drainage) are things they mentioned would help achieve this.

Another important difficulty is finding the necessary labor. There is a lack of young labor and there is a phenomenon of depopulation in some places. Access to supplies (e.g. fertilizers) is also a concern. Another concern is the frequency and impact of upcoming weather events, specifically high-intensity hurricanes.

For Cuban cocoa producers there is clearly a potential to increase both the area of cocoa plantations and intensification (increased yield). While good prices are an incentive to go in that direction, there are some limitations.

The lack of plant material and/or rodenticides has been mentioned. However, there is one limitation that seems greater: succession. Not only do farmers talk about depopulation, but also that younger generations are less interested in this work.

Consequently, cocoa farmers are not the only ones who age on the plantations. They have accumulated a lot of experience and it would be a real loss if they did not pass it on. The evolution of a plantation can be slow, but its complexity is great given the variety of plants that can be found in them, practical knowledge can help to deal with it.

Only a small workshop on the use of wood was seen, although in all the plots there are trees that can be turned into wood or firewood. When picked, the seeds lose a juice called “cocoa honey.” It is not widely used, but some people ferment it to produce an alcoholic beverage. These two examples above demonstrate that some potential can be left out.

Information taken from the master’s thesis “Cocoa production in the Eastern region of Cuba (Baracoa): evaluation, understanding and potential.” Author: Onier Toirac Romero. Year 2024. Guantánamo University. Agroforestry Faculty

Cosecha

HARVEST

With only one chocolate production plant in all of Cuba, the fact that it is located in Baracoa makes this city the heart of Cuban cocoa. All producers deliver their production to the same collection system. The collection points are located in places close to the farms to compensate for transportation difficulties and, at the same time, in easily accessible places.

The Agroforestry and Coconut Company collects all the product in this value chain. In the case of cocoa, the Management Center carries out the fermentation and drying processes for all farmers before the chocolate factory takes charge of the resulting product.

The selection of quality is not based on flavor, but on the visual and sanitary state of the cocoa seeds, for which the cutting test is carried out. Farmers often ensure that what they send is of top quality and reserve the lower quality seeds for their own consumption.

Baja Calidad Comunidad

Cocoa in Cuba

Cocoa has been part of the Cuban landscape for centuries and a certain tradition and popular culture emerged around it. Numerous drinks have emerged, marked by the different waves of migration. It is a way, as in the case of chocolate bars, to celebrate special events, as well as to start or end another day of work.

Baracoa represents around 75% of the country’s cocoa production with around 2,500 people working for it on more or less 4,000 hectares. The cultivated area of the region is slightly less than 20,000 hectares and the population is slightly more than 80,000 inhabitants.

Cocoa cultivation takes place mainly on small family farms where the pods are harvested and opened, marketing the mucilage through the Agroforestry Company. Carrying out fermentation and drying in Company facilities.

The harvest should be only of the ripe fruits. Green ears contain immature grains that give the product a bad taste and aroma. For harvests, the maturity of the ears and the presence of pests, diseases or harmful animals must be considered. When the quantity of ripe fruits is abundant and there are health and pest problems, the frequency of harvesting must be increased in order to avoid losses.

On small or medium-sized farms, the harvesting of ears should be done every two or three weeks, thereby avoiding overripeness of the fruits and the risk of losses. Appropriate tools must be used for harvesting, the main one being pruning shears, the cut of which must be made near the ear and not on the floral cushion, as it can also damage it, detrimental to the future harvest; Any other tool, such as the machete, can cause wounds to the tree or damage the fruit kernels. Under no circumstances should you pluck the ears by pulling them with your hand, because it tears and completely destroys the floral cushion, causing dangerous injuries to the trunk.

Generally, the piles of fruits should be made in a space without cocoa trees and in which the work of splitting the pods can be easily carried out and where it is possible to gather the shells for their decomposition and subsequent use in the same crop, as fertilizer. very good quality organic.

Due to its characteristics, it demands labor, which in many cases is provided by the family, and in some cases workers or labor specialized in key tasks for the development of the crop are hired. This quality makes it an important producer of both direct and indirect employment; It is estimated that in the management and support phase, for every three hectares of cocoa, one permanent rural job is generated. For this reason, it is considered that this crop energizes the economy of the areas in which cocoa projects are developed, which, in addition, in many cases, are located in regions that present various social problems such as poverty, unemployment, violence, among others. .

For weed control, the use of plant covers is one of the most used mechanisms in agroecology. It is a sustainable alternative for controlling weeds, reducing runoff, preventing erosion, and contributing to the improvement of the physical characteristics of the soil such as: porosity, structure, texture, water infiltration into the soil, increasing the nitrogen content. ; chemicals such as: phosphorus, potassium and other microelements; and biological aspects of the soil since they contribute to the development of microfauna when decomposing. Manual control is another of the mechanisms most used by producers to eliminate weeds from the soil.

Cocoa begins its production after three years and can be grown in any type of soil from sandy loam to heavy clays and by being managed with agroecological techniques we protect the environment, reduce vulnerability and adapt better to climate change.

Among the main properties of cocoa, we can mention its antioxidant property, rich in polyphenol antioxidants. It is beneficial for the heart, because if dark chocolate is consumed daily and in small quantities, it reduces the risk of suffering a heart attack. It has a great anti-cancer, brain-stimulating, anti-tussive and anti-diarrheal effect.

The cocoa industry in Cuba has a wide possibility of development. Therefore, it is necessary to continue strengthening the use of technologies that are adapted to the region and that guarantee an improvement in production processes. This could contribute to improving production levels, increasing product quality and access to better markets. Carrying out research and training of the different links involved in this productive chain promotes the growth of the cocoa sector and the development of alternatives for the industry. This could also contribute to the economic stability of the sectors involved in the production, processing and marketing of cocoa.

Quality markets have a growing interest in finding high-quality cocoa, with special flavors and origins. Cuba’s cocoa production is becoming one of the most important targets for export businesses. It is a goal of the Baracoa cocoa sector to be recognized worldwide for its marked aroma and color characteristics, highly appreciated in the preparation of fine chocolates, coatings and couvertures. Due to the interest shown by the international market, we seek to improve cocoa production to fully satisfy a future increase in demand.

BioCubaCocoa

HISTORY

Initially the Mayans and the Aztecs were the first to cultivate cocoa for consumption. They commonly prepared a drink called “chocolatl”, which consisted of a mixture of roasted and ground cocoa beans, water, corn and certain spices. The Aztecs considered this drink to have aphrodisiac properties, and it was consumed mainly in important ceremonies, such as weddings. The Aztecs believed that the cocoa tree had a divine origin.

Cocoa was one of the first crops introduced by the Spanish on the island, in the initial times of colonization; and some claim that it grew wild in our fertile lands and, although its economic importance as a commercial crop, compared to sugar cane or tobacco, was minor, cocoa occupied a main place in the traditional diet in Cuba until the 19th century during which chocolate shared the preference with coffee, until it was displaced by it and its importance in history and national culture is undeniable.

It can be said that its introduction occurred during the first half of the 16th century, when the incipient colony experienced a brief period of flourishing that, in addition to the search for gold and intensive livestock exploitation, included the development of a diversified subsistence agriculture.

Some hypotheses suggest that cocoa was introduced by the Spanish in 1540 from Mexico, and planted for the first time on the “Mi Cuba” farm in Cabaiguan, in the center of the country (a version repeated by other cocoa specialists from the Ministry of Agriculture). ; while others point to his
introduction by the French in the “Ti Arriba” area in the East: It has been impossible to find documentary evidence for the first and references in literature abound for the second.

After 1959, with the triumph of the Cuban Revolution, a notable boost was given to the demands for agricultural diversification that had been raised in previous centuries; and cocoa was included in the new development plans. Institutions of the revolutionary government took on the task of stimulating the rescue of cocoa plantations in the eastern region, with the delivery of plants, fertilizers, products for the treatment of diseases, etc.

Furthermore, taking into account that until that date the “ignorance of the most basic plant care practices” and fruit processing had influenced low yields, the improvement of the workers who would face the new challenges was proposed.

Just as various technical works were published in order to cover the need to prepare personnel capable of carrying out the technical and social transformation of the field; among which are some aimed at preparing intermediate technicians and qualified workers in the cultivation of cocoa.

Also since then, experimentation has been formed, both in obtaining clonal varieties more resistant to diseases of greater economic importance that reduce crop losses and of higher quality, and in the sphere of the use of other cocoa derivatives.